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Chanel artistic director Matthieu Blazy has marked his first year at the fashion house with a collection that pays tribute to founder Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel while exploring the many identities women can inhabit throughout their lives.
Presented on Monday night, the collection was designed as an ode to the house's founder but went beyond simply revisiting Chanel's history.
Blazy focused instead on creating clothing that could accompany women through different stages of life, from youthful experimentation to professional responsibilities and major celebrations.
The show opened with model Dyanira Hurbuscher wearing a sheer outfit featuring a bra inspired by Edwardian corsetry.
Unlike the restrictive garments associated with that period, however, the design was softened and made less restrictive, reflecting Gabrielle Chanel's rejection of the rigid fashion conventions of her era.
Hurbuscher carried one of Chanel's personal 2.55 bags from the house's archives, establishing a connection between the founder's history and Blazy's contemporary interpretation.
The same piece appeared again in the final look, creating a visual connection between the beginning and end of the presentation.
Blazy explained that the collection was not intended to function simply as a history lesson.
Instead, he described women as possessing multiple identities that emerge throughout their lives, with one version of a woman giving way to another.
The collection reflected that idea through its progression of clothing.
Underwear, playful tulle skirts, contrasting patterns and detachable collars represented a youthful stage before transitioning into garments suited to professional life.
Pinstripe trousers, soft tailoring, detailed floral brooches and tailored waistcoats introduced a more mature and practical aesthetic.
Later looks brought a sense of celebration through silk dresses inspired by the 1930s, sequined pieces and an elaborate black gown.
Chanel's famous skirt suits and tweed also remained central to the collection. Blazy introduced what he called "smocked tweed," a more flexible interpretation of the house's traditional fabric.
He compared the material's adaptability to sportswear, giving a familiar Chanel element a contemporary character.
Birds became another major motif throughout the presentation. Swifts, swallows, cranes and geese appeared on garments, invitations and within the show's surroundings.
The inspiration came from Calabria in southern Italy, where Blazy encountered a natural reserve for birds while on holiday.
The symbolism connected directly to Chanel's own journey. Blazy suggested that every step Gabrielle Chanel took eventually led towards freedom, much like a bird taking flight.
The atmosphere inside the Grand Palais reflected that sense of freedom and celebration, with celebrities including Dua Lipa, Nicole Kidman and Pedro Pascal among the guests.
After a successful first year at Chanel, the 42 year old designer appeared confident and energised as he took his final bow, signalling a new chapter for one of fashion's most influential houses.
